SATURNIX: A 3D PRINTED RASPBERRY PI CAMERA THAT SHOOTS RAW AND LOOKS LIKE A FILM PROP

A cassette-futurist camera body around a Raspberry Pi Zero that writes DNG files and looks like it belongs on the set of Alien.

by Yutani140x

FULL CAD BOM FIRMWARE DOCS

Open-hardwareDisplays

difficulty
●●●●
time
a weekend-plus
license
MIT
repo
repo ACTIVE417 stars

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

  • 3D printer + filamentprintable parts — files are in the repo
  • Electronic partsfull list with part numbers in the repo BOM
  • Dev board / microcontrollerruns the project firmware

Partner

Reach your Pi from anywhereRemote desktop to the machine running this build — no port forwarding, works right from the browser.Try Getscreen.me
1

COMPAREE VERDICT

SATURNIX is a functional 16 megapixel autofocus camera in a 3D printed body that genuinely looks like a prop from a 1979 science fiction film. It writes DNG raw files alongside JPEG, applies film looks as it shoots, and is operated through five mechanical keys and a small screen with a deliberately retro interface. The repository is complete: firmware, a PDF assembly manual, STL and STEP files for the body, and a BOM with part links. The single thing most likely to go wrong is the wiring between the Pi, the screen, the keys, and the Arducam sensor — the manual has diagrams, but if you have never soldered a ribbon cable or traced a GPIO map, this will be harder than the print. The other trap is cost: the Arducam IMX519 module alone is around dollars 50, and by the time you add the Pi, the screen, the keys, the SD card and shipping you are looking at dollars 120-150 for a camera that takes good photos but will never match the autofocus speed or battery life of a phone. You build this because you want a camera that looks like this and exists nowhere else, not because it is cheaper or better than commercial hardware. If that proposition does not appeal, this is not the project. If it does, the documentation will get you there.

NOT IN THE REPO

  • Repository ships STL and STEP files for the body, a complete PDF assembly manual, and MIT-licensed firmware.
  • Hardware is CERN-OHL-S (requires share-alike for derivatives) and documentation/photos are CC BY 4.0 with a specific attribution requirement.
  • BOM is in the README with direct links to the Arducam sensor, Pi Zero 2 W, screen, and mechanical keys.
  • No Gerbers because there is no custom PCB — assembly is the printed body, off-the-shelf electronics, and wiring.
  • Film emulation presets (S-Gold, VHS) and the period interface are in the firmware; you do not configure them yourself.
  • The SATURNIX logo and brand assets are excluded from the open licence and may not be isolated or reused.

Can I build this?

PrintFull body shell in six parts (front, back, lens mount, key caps, screen bezel, rear cover), PLA or PETG, estimated 18-24 hours print time across all parts
BuyArducam IMX519 autofocus module (~USD 50), Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W, 1.3-inch SPI screen, five 6x6mm tactile switches, microSD card (16GB+), USB-C cable, M2.5 screws and standoffs
Tools3D printer, soldering iron, small Phillips screwdriver, wire strippers, multimeter recommended for debugging connections
SkillsIntermediate 3D printing (multi-part assembly with tight tolerances for the lens mount), competent soldering (ribbon cables and GPIO headers), and basic Linux command line to flash the firmware and configure the Pi
TimeA weekend-plus: one day for printing and cleanup, half a day for wiring and assembly, and another few hours for firmware setup and troubleshooting the screen and key mappings
Cost$$, dominated by the Arducam sensor (USD 50) and the Pi Zero 2 W (USD 15-20); total build cost USD 120-150 depending on shipping and whether you already have an SD card and soldering supplies
SafetyNo real hazard beyond ordinary low-voltage electronics work; the project runs on 5V USB-C and there are no lithium cells, mains voltage, or sharp tooling involved.

Build at your own risk. Projects involve tools, electronics and sometimes mains voltage — follow the creator’s safety notes.

A desktop 3D printer that prints in full colorPartner · Kickstarter
A desktop 3D printer that prints in full color

HeyGears G1: 10M+ colors and transparent parts in one print, plus UV printing on flat objects. Figures, parts and labels — no painting.

See how it prints

Gallery

https://github.com/Yutani140x/saturnix-camera
https://github.com/Yutani140x/saturnix-camera
https://github.com/Yutani140x/saturnix-camera
https://github.com/Yutani140x/saturnix-camera
https://github.com/Yutani140x/saturnix-camera
https://github.com/Yutani140x/saturnix-camera

Start here

Navigation into the creator’s own docs — we don’t rewrite the guide, we route you to the source.

  1. 1.Read the assembly manual PDF in the repository (The manual has exploded diagrams and the GPIO wiring map; read it before ordering parts to confirm you are comfortable with the soldering and assembly steps.)
  2. 2.Order the Arducam IMX519 module and other electronics from the BOM(The sensor is the most expensive single part and the project will not work with a cheaper Pi camera module; the firmware is written specifically for the IMX519.)
  3. 3.Print all six body parts in PLA or PETG at 0.2mm layer height(The lens mount has tight tolerances for the Arducam thread; if your printer is not well calibrated, print a test fit of just the lens mount first before committing to the full 18-24 hour print run.)
  4. 4.Flash the firmware image to the microSD card and boot the Pi to test the sensor and screen before final assembly (Testing the electronics on a bench before they go into the body will save you from disassembling the camera if a wire is loose or a key is not responding.)

Resources

Documentation, files and community threads for this build — we link straight to the original sources and never rehost the creator’s files.

Blu-ray drive, 10 Gbps hub and card reader in one boxPartner · Kickstarter
Blu-ray drive, 10 Gbps hub and card reader in one box

BluHub reads and burns Blu-ray/DVD/CD, adds USB-C, USB-A, SD/TF and 10 Gbps data — plug and play, grand-piano finish.

See the hub

KNOWN ISSUES

  • The Arducam IMX519 sensor is around USD 50 and the project will not work with a cheaper Pi camera module — the firmware is written specifically for the IMX519 and its autofocus driver.
  • The wiring between the Pi, the screen, the keys, and the sensor is not plug-and-play; you will be soldering ribbon cables and mapping GPIO pins, and if a connection is bad the camera will boot but keys or the screen will not respond.
  • The lens mount has tight tolerances for the Arducam thread; if your printer is not well calibrated or you print too fast, the mount will either be too loose (lens wobbles) or too tight (cross-threads and jams).
  • The film emulation presets are baked into the firmware and not configurable through a settings menu; if you want a different look, you will need to edit the code and reflash.
  • Battery life is not mentioned in the documentation and the Pi Zero 2 W is not known for low power draw; expect to carry a USB power bank if you want to shoot for more than an hour.
  • The CC BY 4.0 licence on the photos and documentation requires attribution in the exact form the author specifies: 'SATURNIX Camera by Yutani140x' — if you post photos of your build, include that credit or you are not complying with the licence.

Can I use a cheaper Raspberry Pi camera module instead of the Arducam IMX519?

No. The firmware is written specifically for the IMX519 sensor and its autofocus driver. A different sensor will not work without rewriting substantial parts of the code.

How long does the battery last?

The documentation does not specify, and the Pi Zero 2 W is not a low-power board. Expect to carry a USB power bank for anything longer than casual shooting; an hour of intermittent use is a reasonable guess but not verified.

Can I modify the film emulation presets or add my own?

The presets are in the firmware source, so yes, but you will need to edit the code and reflash the SD card. There is no in-camera preset editor.

What resolution and frame rate does it shoot video at?

The repository and manual focus on stills (DNG raw and JPEG); video capability is not mentioned, so assume this is a stills-only camera unless proven otherwise.

Can I sell cameras built from these files?

The hardware is CERN-OHL-S, which allows commercial use but requires you to share any modifications under the same licence. The firmware is MIT (permissive). The SATURNIX logo and brand assets are excluded and may not be used commercially.

Community builds

No community builds yet — be the first, we feature the best ones.

Discussion1

FROM THE COMPAREE TEAM

The Arducam IMX519 sensor is USD 50, the Pi is another USD 15-20, and by the time you add the screen and keys you are at USD 120-150 for a camera that will never match a phone's autofocus or battery. Would you build it anyway for the aesthetic, or is that too much for a weekend project?

CompareeTEAM15d ago

Practical notes from our verification: the repository is clean and complete — the PDF assembly manual has exploded diagrams and the GPIO wiring map is explicit, which is unusual for a Pi camera project and makes this much more buildable than most. The film emulation presets are in the firmware source as lookup tables, not a separate config file, so editing them is possible but not trivial. The single biggest trap is not mentioned anywhere: the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W has no power management, so battery life will be short and there is no low-battery warning unless you add it yourself. The tight tolerances on the lens mount are real — test-fit that part before printing the full body or you will waste a day reprinting it.

Yutani140x

Yutani140x designed SATURNIX as a functional camera in a cassette-futurist aesthetic that does not exist in any commercial product. The project combines 3D printed hardware, open firmware, and a deliberate visual and interface design language that prioritises character over convenience.

GitHub

Star the project on GitHub

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  • Information is provided without warranty and may become outdated as projects evolve. Prices are indicative bands only — always check the creator’s parts list for current costs.
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