TURN AN OLD 5K IMAC INTO A STUDIO DISPLAY
Any 2014 to 2020 5K iMac can become a USB-C monitor with power delivery for 300 to 500 dollars, about a third of Apple's 1,599 dollar Studio Display.
by Quinn Nelson (Snazzy Labs)
WorkshopDisplays
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- a weekend-plus
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●●●●○ · a weekend-plus · license not specified · 0 stars · repo
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
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COMPAREE VERDICT
Snazzy Labs' result really does look close to a Studio Display (same 5K resolution, similar brightness and uniformity in his comparison) for 300 to 500 dollars all-in, about a third of Apple's 1,599 dollar starting price. The 2017 and 2019 iMacs are the sweet spot. Skip the 2017 iMac Pro and the 2020 27-inch if you want working speakers. Besides the SA1 board you add a MeanWell LRS-150-24 power supply, a 24-to-12 V step-down and a fan controller with a thermistor to run the original blower fan, plus speaker crossovers. The mounting parts should be printed in ABS or ASA (PETG works, PLA does not). Mains AC is spliced from the iMac's power inlet to the new PSU, so you are wiring 120/240 V inside the case. Even Quinn calls the hardest part the fan circuit, because Apple's fan pin-out is non-standard and undocumented. The Notion guide has the full parts list and 3D file links, but its illustrated instructions are still marked 'arriving soon', so the video is your step-by-step for now. If you are comfortable with soldering and mains wiring and have access to a 3D printer, this is a very clever build.
IN THE REPO
GOOD TO KNOW
- —The Notion guide lists the parts: StoneTaskin SA1 ('Package A'), a crossover divider matched to the board, MeanWell LRS-150-24 PSU, a fan controller with thermistor, a DC-DC step-down and iMac display adhesive, plus wire, screws, solder, connectors and Kapton tape.
- —3D files: montezemolo's and professorshroom's Thingiverse projects, Bulabula2001's SA1 mount on Printables, and three of Snazzy Labs' own files attached to the guide.
- —The illustrated instructions are marked 'arriving soon'; for now the guide is a parts and file checklist, and the video shows the assembly.
- —Nothing gets flashed on the SA1. The only 'firmware' step is setting a fan curve on the fan controller (Quinn: fan starts slowly at 30 °C and ramps with temperature).
- —The build reuses the iMac's 5120×2880 panel, speakers, case, blower fan and power button; the logic board, PSU and drive are removed.
- —No licence is stated for the guide or for Snazzy Labs' 3D files. The third-party models carry whatever licence their own Thingiverse or Printables pages give.
Parts to buy
10 itemsFrom our check of the build. Exact quantities and part numbers are in the creator’s BOM.
- Used 27-inch 5K iMac (2017 or 2019 best value)Find
- StoneTaskin SA1 driver boardFind
- Speaker crossover matched to the boardFind
- MeanWell LRS-150-24 PSUFind
- Fan controller with thermistorFind
- DC-DC step-downFind
- IMac display adhesiveFind
- About 650 g of stick-on wheel weightsFind
- Optional DC pigtailFind
- USB4 display cable and DisplayPort panel-mount cableFind
Can I build this?
This build involves mains voltage — for adults comfortable with electrical work only.
Build at your own risk. Projects involve tools, electronics and sometimes mains voltage — follow the creator’s safety notes.
Videos
I Turned a $200 iMac Into a $1,600 Studio Display!33:23
The full build video by Snazzy Labs (13 Nov 2025). The description links the Notion guide via snazzy.fm/Mo.
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Start here
Navigation into the creator’s own docs — we don’t rewrite the guide, we route you to the source.
- 1.Read the Notion guide and watch the Snazzy Labs video (The guide has the parts checklist and 3D file links. The illustrated steps are still 'arriving soon', so the video is your walkthrough.)
- 2.Order the SA1 board, a matching crossover and a MeanWell LRS-150-24 (This is the StoneTaskin SA1 'Package A' link from the guide. Quinn says you can save about 25 dollars by buying the base kit plus crossovers and using a MeanWell PSU instead of the bundled 120 W adapter. Also order the fan controller, the DC-DC step-down and new display adhesive.)
- 3.Print the mounting parts in ABS or ASA(The files are from montezemolo, professorshroom, Bulabula2001 and Snazzy Labs (all linked in the guide). PETG works too, but not PLA.)
- 4.Open the iMac and strip the computer parts(Cut the perimeter adhesive with a cutting wheel, unplug the two display cables and set the screen aside safely. Remove the logic board, PSU, drive and speakers, but keep the screen, speakers, case and blower fan.)
- 5.Wire PSU, fan circuit, crossovers and board, add ~650 g ballast, then re-seal(Splice mains from the original inlet to the MeanWell. Run 24 V into the step-down (set to 12 V), then into the fan controller and the fan. Fit the DisplayPort and OSD buttons in the RAM door. USB-C goes out through the Ethernet port.)
Resources
Documentation, files and community threads for this build — we link straight to the original sources and never rehost the creator’s files.
KNOWN ISSUES
- The illustrated instructions in the Notion guide are still marked 'arriving soon', so for now you work from the video, the guide's parts checklist and existing iMac disassembly guides.
- Wrong model for speakers: the 2017 iMac Pro and the 2020 27-inch iMac handled the speaker crossover in the T2 chip, so their internal speakers will not work with the add-on crossovers.
- The iMac's own power supply is removed. A separate MeanWell LRS-150-24 (24 V) powers the board, with mains spliced from the original power inlet, so live 120/240 V wiring sits inside the case. Work unplugged and insulate every joint.
- The original blower fan needs 12 V: a cheap DC-DC step-down (set it to 12.0 V and test it before installing; Quinn says many arrive dead) feeds a fan controller with a thermistor. Apple's fan connector uses a non-standard pin order (PWM, control, ground, voltage), which Quinn worked out by taking a spare fan apart.
- Removing the heavy logic board and heatsink takes out about 650 g, and the stand hinge is sprung for that weight. Add about 650 g of ballast (Quinn used 24 stick-on wheel weights) below the hinge, away from anything conductive.
- Print the mounts in ABS or ASA. PETG also works, but PLA deforms from the heat inside the case. The 2014/2015 iMacs need the MDP port cover and 2017+ need the USB-C cover; the guide lists both.
- Pick a speaker crossover that matches your driver board (the guide warns about this). In Quinn's kit the crossovers were wired backwards and needed correcting.
- Re-sealing the screen with new adhesive is a one-shot job. Get a helper and route the display and backlight cables before you peel the tabs.
Which iMac model should I buy?
Any 27-inch 5K iMac from 2014 to 2020 can be converted. Snazzy Labs recommends the 2017 and 2019 models: DCI-P3 colour and about 500 nits, and they often sell for under 300 dollars on Facebook Marketplace (a base model with a spinning hard drive is fine, since only the screen and speakers are reused). The 2014 is sRGB-only and prone to image retention, and the 2015 tops out under 400 nits. Avoid the 2017 iMac Pro and the 2020 27-inch if you want the built-in speakers: their T2 chip handled the audio crossover, so the speakers will not work with the add-on crossovers.
Can I keep the iMac as a computer and use it as a monitor?
No. Apple never offered Target Display Mode on the 5K iMac, because in 2014 DisplayPort 1.2 did not have the bandwidth for 5120×2880 at 60 Hz. This mod removes all the computer parts and replaces them with a display controller board, so the iMac becomes a monitor only.
Will the SA1 board work with Windows or Linux computers?
Yes. The MediaTek-based SA1 takes standard DisplayPort 1.4 and HDMI 2.1 (full 10-bit 5K for a PC), plus a single-cable USB-C input with 90 W power delivery for a Mac.
How does the display compare to Apple's Studio Display?
Same 5120×2880 resolution. In Quinn's side-by-side, brightness, uniformity, contrast and sharpness looked very similar; the SA1's current booster pushes the backlight to about 550 nits versus the Studio Display's 600. You lose the webcam, and the old iMac speakers (which still work through the crossovers) are weaker than the Studio Display's. His total was 300 to 500 dollars, about a third of the Studio Display's 1,599 dollar starting price.
What is the riskiest part?
The screen. It is the whole reason for the build, so take care not to damage it while cutting the adhesive and while handling it. Re-sealing is a one-shot job: line it up with a helper before you pull the adhesive tabs, or you will have to redo the adhesive.
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Discussion1
FROM THE COMPAREE TEAM
Snazzy Labs says the 2017 and 2019 5K iMacs are the sweet spot and that the 2020 model's T2 chip kills the speakers. If you have done this conversion, which year did you use, and which part took you longest: the fan circuit, the cable routing or re-sealing the screen?
Quinn Nelson (Snazzy Labs)
Quinn Nelson runs the Snazzy Labs YouTube channel. He published this conversion on 13 November 2025 after deciding he did not want to pay 1,600 dollars for a Studio Display. He already had a 5K panel inside an old, slow 2014 iMac. It took him about a month of research, partly because the best information was buried in a 127-page MacRumors forum thread, so he wrote it up as a Notion build guide.
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- Information is provided without warranty and may become outdated as projects evolve. Prices are indicative bands only — always check the creator’s parts list for current costs.
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CompareeTEAM2d ago
Practical notes from our check of the sources: the Notion guide loads and lists every part and 3D file, but its illustrated instructions are still marked 'arriving soon', so the video is the real walkthrough. Two things the video makes clear that are easy to miss: the iMac's own PSU is replaced by a MeanWell LRS-150-24, which means you splice mains wiring inside the case; and after gutting the iMac you need about 650 g of ballast or the hinge will not balance. The guide states no licence for its instructions or for Snazzy Labs' 3D files, so check each third-party model's own page for its terms.